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Soup

Soup Stock Broth

in What's Cooking

SOUP STOCK BROTH

One of my fondest memories from childhood is the smell of chicken soup that emanated from the kitchen on Friday nights. Mom would put a whole chicken in a big pot of water along with carrots; celery; parsley and onions, salt and pepper.  I think sometimes she added parsnip too. The soup cooked for hours. When mom took the chicken out of the pot, the poor thing looked shrunken and sad, as if it had wandered into a steam bath and couldn’t get out, which if you think about it, is exactly what happened.

Mom always said that chicken soup had medicinal properties and was really good for easing cold symptoms. She also said that using a kosher chicken gave the soup a deeper flavor. Turns out she was right on both counts. Bone broth has a high concentration of minerals, as well as collagen and gelatin, which can boost the immune system. To kosher a chicken you salt it to draw out all the blood. In the cooking world we’d say the chickens were brined.

I use a lot of chicken broth and sometimes stock when I am cooking. I load up on the cans and quart size packages whenever they are on sale. I finally decided it was about time I tried to make my own.

I met Chef/Instructor Mike Selman at Sur La Table. I had signed up to take his knife skills class. It was really good. Since the pandemic he has been teaching classes via Zoom. Since I have attended most of them, we developed a friendship. I asked him to explain to me: what was the difference between broth and stock, since some recipes say you can use either.

This is what he told me: “If you want to make stock, plan to be at home all day.” Chicken broth isn’t as time intensive, but it also doesn’t have the same rich flavor that comes from the bones that are used in making stock.”

The main difference between broth and stock is that broth is made primarily with chicken meat – thighs, breasts, etc. and is simmered on the stove for a relatively short amount of time.

Stock is made from chicken bones (such as the wings) whch you cook for many hours. The increased cooking times pulls more collagen from the bones, which deepens the flavor of the stock and can boost the immune system.

NOTE: Some chefs like to roast the bones before putting them in the pot because they think the roasting adds a sense of richness to the stock. Try it both ways and see which you prefer. 

MIKE SELMAN’S CHICKEN STOCK

Makes about 3 quarts

 Ingredients

  • 3 lbs. chicken wings
  • I large onion
  • 1 medium carrot
  • 1 rib celery
  • 2 sprigs parsley
  • 6 peppercorns
  • 2 – 3 garlic cloves, lightly smashed (optional)

 Directions

  1.  Roughly chop the carrot, celery and onion
  2. Rinse chicken wings and place in a stock pot or other large pot
  3. Add water to cover by 2 inches (at least 4 quarts)
  4. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to a low simmer
  5. When foam starts to collect, skim it.
  6. Repeat skimming until all the foam is gone
  7. Add the rest of the ingredients.
  8. If necessary add more water to ensure everything is covered by 2 inches
  9. Cook the stock at a low simmer for at least four hours or up to 6 hours
  10. Let cool and strain the stock through a fine sieve into as many containers as you need
  11. Store in the refrigerator for 24 hours to cool completely
  12. Skim fat that has risen to the top of the pot and solidified
  13. Stock will stay fresh in the refrigerator for up to 5 days or up to 4 months in the freezer.

 

 

Italian Grain and Bean Soup

in What's Cooking

 As the days get shorter and the air gets colder many people,including me, turn to soup as the magic elixir. When I was growing up my mom made chicken soup every Friday. As it simmered on the stove and as the aroma wafted through the house, I knew that all was right in my world.

But let’s face it; you don’t always have the time to let soup simmer on the stove all afternoon. You need something easy, fast, nutritious, and delicious that you can have on the table in less than an hour. One of my favorite “simple savory soups” is Italian Grain and Bean. It is made with canned tomatoes, chicken broth, and cannellini beans, which cuts down on the prep and cooking time.

In this recipe, the grain of choice is farro, an ancient grain that is an ancestor of wheat. I love farro because of its nutty flavor. For me it has more umani than other grains.You can use barley in this recipe, but the soup won’t taste quite the same, and it will take longer to cook. Today farro is readily available in well stocked supermarkets, and of course on line.

Serve the soup with crusty bread. Add fruit and cheese (and a glass of wine ) for a complete meal.

This recipe serves 6..

Ingredients 

  • 1  tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1  medium onion, chopped
  • 1 medium carrot, chopped
  • 1 stalk celery, chopped
  • 1/3 cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
  • 2 teaspoons chopped fresh basil
  • 1 clove garlic minced
  • 1 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes (not drained)
  • 4 cups reduced sodium chicken broth
  • 1/2 cup farro
  • 1 14.5-ounce can cannellini beans, rinsed
  • Freshly ground pepper to taste
  • Parmesan rind (optional)
  • 2 tablespoons freshly grated parmesan cheese

Directions

  1. Heat oil in a 4 – 6 quart Dutch oven or soup pot over medium-high heat
  2. Add onion; carrot; celery, parsley; basil, and garlic. Cook stirring often, until the onion and carrot begin to soften, 3 – 4 minutes
  3. Add tomatoes; their juice, and the chicken broth
  4. Increase heat to high and bring to a boil
  5. Add farro and beans
  6. Season with pepper
  7. When the soup returns to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the grain is tender, 30 – 35 minutes. (If using barley cook for 40-45 minutes)
  8. Remove Parmesan rind if using
  9. Sprinkle each serving with cheese

The recipe comes from Eating Well Magazine, Winter 2003

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